Héloïse Doumont: “Performance is, above all, a matter of mindset”

After winning the Belgian championship title and securing an impressive 10th place at the Climbing World Cup in Bali, nothing seems to be slowing down the rise of the Belgian climber. Could Héloïse Doumont’s secret to success be her joy for life and her resolutely positive mindset? Portrait.

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On June 29, 2025, Héloïse Doumont placed 7th in the lead final at the Climbing World Cup stage in Innsbruck — a well-deserved first World Cup final!

The irresistible rise of the Belgian climbing champion.

Héloïse Doumont discovered climbing almost by chance, at just seven years old. The moment her hands touched the holds, she was hooked. Twenty years later, she has devoted her entire life to the sport.

The journey of the two-time Belgian champion hasn’t been a smooth ride. In 2021, her passion waned. She decided to end her career, only to lace up her climbing shoes again a few months later. Then came a skiing accident and a torn cruciate ligament, keeping her away from the walls for yet another year.

It seems it takes far more than that to stop Héloïse.She marked her comeback by claiming her first Belgian lead climbing championship title. Since then, the climber — who placed third at the Youth World Championships in 2017 — has been racking up successes. After finishing 27th in the world rankings for lead climbing in 2024, she already secured a 15th place in Wujiang, China, at the opening stage of the Lead Climbing World Cup, followed by a 10th place at the second stage in Bali, Indonesia.

Her goal for the 2025 season? “I’ll do everything I can to reach a top 10. But I’ve never felt this strong before, so why not a top 8?”

From Physical Strength to Mental Performance: Héloïse Doumont’s Turning Point

Héloïse Doumont’s confidence and mental strength are impressive today — but it wasn’t always this way.
“I went through a long period of doubt. I felt like I had hit a plateau. Physically and technically, I was strong. But as soon as I started to get tired, I would fall. It really took a toll on my morale.” To the point that even winning another Belgian championship title didn’t feel fully satisfying. “Of course, I was happy to win. But I wasn’t satisfied with my performance. I wanted to do better.”

To address this weakness, Héloïse began focusing her preparation on staying mentally sharp under effort. That’s when she met a sports psychologist.
“I had a real breakthrough. I realized I was putting way too much pressure on myself. I felt like I was competing against myself, and I saw other climbers only as rivals. Working on what happens in my head is almost as hard as working on my body, but it gave me perspective and helped me gain maturity. Today, my goal is to have fun, push my limits, and keep learning new things.”

She adds, “Recently, I also started working part-time at a climbing gym. I’m even training to become a climbing coach. In a way, that really helps me take a step back.”

This mental training completely changed her view on performance. “Now, I see it as pushing myself further. It’s a form of fulfillment.”

Does it work?
“It’s not magic — I still fall, and I still doubt myself sometimes. But at the same time, I’ve never felt this good and this confident.” Judging by the big smile she wears when telling her story, what she calls her “mindset shift” also brings her plenty of joy.

Always Active — Even in Recovery

What stands out about Héloïse Doumont is the sheer amount of radiant energy she gives off. It’s hard to imagine someone who can train up to 40 hours a week sitting still. When asked about recovery, she smiles:
“For me, it can only be active. I recover through training: walking, running, cycling, climbing easier routes.” Rest? Almost a source of anxiety.
“I’m about to start tapering for the World Cup events, and those periods always stress me out. Will it make me lose my edge? I’m so used to going full throttle that when I don’t feel sore or in pain, it feels strange!”

But looking closer, the climber has found a recovery formula that works for her.
“I’m not at 100% all the time. I allow myself lighter sessions. I pay very close attention to my sleep, hydration, and nutrition. I use self-massage and see a physio regularly. Sometimes I even do things I know are more placebo than anything else. But the brain is a powerful and complicated machine — if it works, I’ll take it! What’s harder for me is switching off my mind so it can recover too. Lately, I’ve found a trick: I go for an easy run while listening to episodes of my favorite series. It works really well.”

What can we take away from Héloïse Doumont’s experience? When it comes to both physical performance and recovery, the key is to find a formula that suits your personality. Another lesson she teaches us: whether you’re a professional athlete or an amateur, the hardest part of the body to train is still the mind. And finally, that true progress comes from passion, combined with the desire to keep learning new things.

With such a mindset, Héloïse is bound to shine at the Climbing World Cup stage in Chamonix this July 2025!