When Training Beats Talent: Performance According to Edwin Gaufrès

When looking at the athletic achievements of some athletes, one might be tempted to believe that we are not all equal when it comes to performance. And yet, it seems to be a bit more complicated than that.

So what are we really talking about when we talk about performance? What are its secrets? How can we continue to progress? We spoke with Edwin Gaufrès—climbing champion, military physiotherapist, and RGENTec ambassador—who shared his perspective and some valuable advice.

The Elusive Definition of Athletic Performance

Edwin Gaufrès is a whirlwind of activity: not only has he earned medals at national, European, and world military climbing championships, but he is also a military physiotherapist, fitness coach, physical preparation consultant, and… a new dad.

Yet when asked to define the concept of performance, he pauses for a moment. “That’s a really complex question. And yet, I devoted part of my final thesis to it!” he says with a smile. “The challenge is that everyone can define it in their own way. But if we were to come up with a more universal definition, I’d say that performance is a remarkable outcome or achievement. It could be a time (in the case of a race), a score (in a match), or a grade (like in climbing). In any case, athletic performance is measured against a set of rules. At the elite level, performance is about getting close to—or even exceeding—the standard set by the best.”

For those not competing at the elite level, “pursuing performance goals in sport, even as a beginner, is above all a matter of momentum,” adds Edwin Gaufrès.

Are We All Equal When It Comes to Performance?

Does striving for performance mean pushing past our limits? Our expert is cautious. “I’m not very comfortable with that idea. It can be dangerous, because it can lead to risky behavior and injuries. I prefer a more positive approach, one that encourages us to improve our capabilities.”

According to him, while some athletes may have extraordinary genetics and physiology, “we are all usually performing a little below what our bodies are truly capable of.” He references Tim Noakes, a leading expert in exercise science and sports medicine at the University of Cape Town, also known for having run more than 70 marathons and ultramarathons. “Training beats talent. We are capable of much more than we think we are.” The secret to unlocking that potential? “Work and motivation!”

But what can we do when we feel like we’re no longer making progress, like we’ve hit a plateau? “The first mistake is to believe that we’ve stopped improving because we’ve hit our physiological limits. Sometimes, the virtuous cycle of stimulation and motivation has simply stalled. You need to find a way to restart it. The body and brain adapt. Sometimes they just need more time. And let’s not forget that the progress curve isn’t linear. When you’re starting out in a discipline, progress can be fast and impressive. But after a certain level, it slows down—and that’s completely normal. The more you improve, the slower the progress. What matters is being patient and resilient.”

As a high-level athlete and fierce competitor himself, Edwin Gaufrès has often wrestled with the tricky subject of progress. “Training means understanding which optimization factors work for you. It’s a test-and-learn process until you find what’s most effective. Overcoming plateaus requires a long-term vision.”

What If the Secret to Performance Is... Rest?

Despite everything, Edwin Gaufrès does share a few of his personal tips for boosting athletic performance. “We don’t improve during effort, but during rest. Our muscles function a bit like an army,” explains the military physiotherapist. “During effort, we break them down, damage the fibers. In the recovery phase, they work with our brain to rebuild and reorganize themselves, so they’ll be better prepared, stronger, and more resilient for the next challenge. They need time to process what they’ve experienced and felt, so they can learn to automate their response while regenerating.”

His first recommendation? “Sleep!” he exclaims. “Spending time and energy on advanced recovery techniques like physiotherapy sessions or cryotherapy is pointless if you’re not getting around 9 hours of sleep a day.” As a young father, he admits to practicing the art of napping whenever he can to meet his sleep quota.

He also emphasizes the importance of nutrition and hydration to help muscles build the blocks they need. What matters most is maintaining a balanced diet. “You need to ensure a good protein intake. The general recommendation is 1 gram per kilogram of body weight per day. So, if you weigh 80 kg, that’s 80 g. For endurance sports, go up to 1.5 g/kg. And for strength sports like climbing, 2 g/kg is recommended. Another key factor to watch is fat intake. Give your body the fats it can’t produce on its own—especially unsaturated omega-3s, which are found in abundance in nuts and seeds.”

In the end, whether it’s in effort, recovery, or nutrition, the primary driver of performance, according to Edwin Gaufrès, seems to be joy and enthusiasm!