Skincare glossary A-D

When it comes to skincare, it can be hard to navigate. Between technical vocabulary, chemical concepts, medical terms from dermatology, regulations and standards, and sometimes even a touch of marketing—how do you make sense of it all?

With our glossary, let’s break down the key concepts of cosmetics and common skin concerns!

First part: A to D.

Abrasions :

A superficial wound caused by friction between the skin and a rough surface. Typically broader than other types of superficial wounds, abrasions commonly occur on the hands, knees, or elbows after a fall.

Active Ingredient :

In cosmetics, an active ingredient is a component selected for its specific properties. Whether natural or synthetic, the benefits of active ingredients are proven through efficacy tests. Some actives are patented technological innovations, such as RGTA.

Acids :

In cosmetics, acids are molecules often derived from fruits.

• AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) are water-soluble acids used for their exfoliating, moisturizing, and balancing properties. They help regulate sebum and can reduce hyperpigmentation.

• BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acids) are lipid-soluble acids that inhibit the growth of fungi and bacteria, making them useful for treating certain types of acne.

• Hyaluronic acid is naturally present in the skin. Unlike AHAs and BHAs, it has no exfoliating effect. Its superpower lies in its ability to retain up to 1,000 times its weight in water, making it a key ally for hydration.

Allergens :

Allergens are substances that trigger immune system reactions. These allergies or intolerances can occur through contact, inhalation, or ingestion. In cosmetics, allergens often come from essential oils and fragrances. European regulations require laboratories to disclose the presence of 82 allergens if they are included in the product’s ingredient list.

Antiseptic :

An antiseptic is a disinfecting product that destroys or prevents the growth of microorganisms or viruses on damaged skin or mucous membranes. It is used to combat infections. In Europe, antiseptics are classified as medicinal products.

Skin Barrier :

The skin barrier refers to the outermost layer of the epidermis, primarily composed of the stratum corneum. It acts as a shield between the body and the external environment. Its structure is comparable to a wall: skin cells act as bricks, while lipids naturally secreted by the body serve as cement.

The skin barrier prevents microorganisms, fungi, viruses, and bacteria from entering the body while limiting water loss. When compromised, the skin may show signs of irritation or redness.

Balm :

Thicker than a cream, a balm has a rich and nourishing texture. It is particularly beneficial for fragile, dry, or sensitive skin in need of repair.

Ceramides :

Ceramides are lipids naturally present in the skin. They play a crucial role in the skin barrier, helping maintain its elasticity and suppleness. In cosmetics, ceramides are either synthetic or plant-derived active ingredients found in many skincare products to hydrate the skin and strengthen the stratum corneum.

Scar :

A scar is the visible mark left after the skin repairs itself following an injury. It is the final outcome of the skin’s healing process. The tissue that forms a scar is often of lower quality than the original skin—it may be more sensitive and less flexible. This is why supporting optimal wound healing is essential.

Learn more about wound healing

Collagen :

Collagen is a protein—actually, the most abundant protein in the animal kingdom. It is produced naturally by the dermis and exists in filament form. Collagen fibers are responsible for the skin’s elasticity and firmness.

Learn more about collagen

Cosmetic Product :

According to Article 2 of the European Cosmetic Regulation and Article L.5131-1 of the French Public Health Code, a cosmetic product is defined as:

"Any substance or mixture intended to be applied to the outer parts of the human body (epidermis, hair system, nails, lips, and external genital organs) or to the teeth and oral mucosa, with the primary purpose of cleaning, perfuming, changing appearance, protecting, maintaining in good condition, or correcting body odors."

Unlike medicinal products, cosmetics do not require pre-market authorization. However, they must comply with cosmetic regulations and legislative requirements to ensure they do not pose any health risks.

Stratum Corneum :

See Skin Barrier.

DDM :

The Minimum Durability Date (DDM) is an indicative date displayed on cosmetic packaging for products with a shelf life of less than 30 months.

A symbol showing an open cream jar with a number of months (e.g., 12M for 12 months or 6M for 6 months) indicates the period during which, under optimal storage conditions, the product remains effective. Beyond this period, the product may still be safe to use if its texture and scent remain unchanged, but its efficacy might be reduced.

To preserve cosmetics properly, store them in a cool, dark place and handle them with clean hands to prevent contamination.

Dermatitis :

Dermatitis refers to skin conditions that may cause irritation, rashes, spots, flaking, or bumps. There are different types of dermatitis, including atopic dermatitis, more commonly known as eczema. Specific care is required for dermatitis—consult a healthcare professional for advice.

Dermis :

Located just beneath the epidermis, the dermis is the thickest layer of the skin. It contains collagen and elastin, which provide elasticity and suppleness. The dermis is also home to blood vessels (which supply oxygen), lymphatic vessels (which remove waste), nerve endings (which enable touch sensations), hair follicles, and sebaceous glands.

Desquamation :

Derived from the Latin word desquamare ("to scale off"), desquamation refers to the shedding of the upper layers of the epidermis in the form of flakes. While it can be a symptom of certain skin conditions, peeling may also occur due to heat, dry air, or excessive UV exposure.

To prevent this, regular skincare—including hydration and UV protection—is essential.

DGCCRF :

Since January 1, 2024, the DGCCRF (Directorate General for Competition, Consumer Affairs, and Fraud Prevention) has been responsible for monitoring cosmetic products and manufacturers in France. It ensures product quality, consumer safety, and fair labeling practices by laboratories.